HKB

← back

Principles of Geology

Charles Lyell · Composed as a long-running edition/author’s revision culminating in the 9th edition; prefaced May 24, 1853.

passage 277 of 788 · BOOK I. (CHAPTERS I. TO XIII.) > CHAPTER XIX. (4/30)

in brief
Lyell explains that current speed increases when ocean passages constrict, giving measured velocities for places like Alderney Race, Pentland Firth, the Bristol Channel shoots, and the Straits of Magellan narrows.

of the Straits of Magellan, that the tide ran at the same rate through the "First Narrows," and about eight geographical miles an hour, in other parts of those straits.

Causes of currents.--That movements of no inconsiderable magnitude should be impressed on an expansive ocean, by winds blowing for many months in one direction, may easily be conceived, when we observe the effects produced in our own seas by the temporary action of the same cause. It is well known that a strong southwest or northwest wind invariably raises the tides to an unusual height along the west coast of England and in the Channel; and that a northwest wind of any continuance causes the Baltic to rise two feet and upwards above its ordinary level. Smeaton ascertained by experiment, that in a canal four miles in length, the water was kept up four inches higher at one end than at the other, merely by the action of the wind along the canal; and Rennell informs us that a large piece of water, ten miles broad, and generally only three feet deep, has, by a strong wind, had its waters driven to one side, and sustained so as to become six feet deep, while the windward side was laid dry.[385]

As water, therefore, he observes, when pent up so that it cannot escape, acquires a higher level, so, in a place where it can escape, the same operation produces a current; and this current will extend to a greater or less distance, according to the force by which it is produced. By the side of the principal oceanic currents, such as the Lagullas and the Gulf Stream, are parallel "counter-currents" running steadily in an opposite direction.

Currents flowing alternately in opposite directions are occasioned by the rise and fall of the tides. The effect of this cause is, as before observed, most striking in estuaries and channels between islands.

A third cause of oceanic currents is evaporation by solar heat, of which the great current setting through the Straits of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean is a remarkable example, and will be fully considered in the next chapter. A stream of colder water also flows from the Black Sea into the Mediterranean. It must happen in many other parts of the world that large quantities of water raised from one tract of the ocean by solar heat, are carried to some other where the vapor is condensed and falls in the shape of rain, and this, in flowing back again to restore equilibrium, will cause sensible currents.

These considerations naturally lead to the inquiry whether the level of those seas out of which currents flow, is higher than that of seas into which they flow. If not, the effect must be immediately equalized by under-currents or counter-currents. Arago is of opinion that, so far as observations have gone, there are no exact proofs of any such difference of level. It was inferred from the measurements of M. Lepare, that the level of the Mediterranean, near Alexandria, was lower by 26 feet 6 inches, than the Red Sea near Suez at low water, and about 30 feet lower than the Red Sea at the same place at high water,[386] but Mr. Robert Stevenson affirms, as the result of a more recent survey, that there is no difference of level between the two seas.[387]

← previous passage read in the full work → next passage →

topics: the earth and its formation · voyages and seafaring · weather, storms, and the seasons

Principles of Geology · Charles Lyell · 1830–1853